I'm not a vegetarian. I was a vegan for about 3 years, and I worked in college as a vegetarian cook, but I'm a meat eater now. I really do think that everyone should try being a vegetarian (or even a vegan) for at least a few months of their life. I think it gives you a full appreciation of how good meat can be, and also how we take vegetables for granted. And you might loose a few pounds.
That said, if you are a vegetarian, thinking about becoming one, you just joined your local CSA, or you just love vegetables, this cookbook is for you. Not only can you find delicious recipes for most common vegetables, there are also recipes for the most uncommon ones - things like kamut, salsify, Jerusalem artichokes, Jicama and amaranth. It also has great basic recipes for desserts, salads, condiments, side dishes and main courses. Vegetarianism has changed in the last 15 -20 years. It's moved away from the "crunchy," soy-based, Braggs flavored, Moosewood Cookbook, "counter culture" hippie inspired fare, to something that is both political (green) and trendy (green). Deborah Madison has been at the forefront of the local, sustainable "slow food" movement since 1979 when she helped open Greens Restaurant in San Francisco at the Zen Center.
But besides all of the issues about food, where we get it, how it affects the ecology of the earth and how this is all relevant to what we eat and how we eat it, this is one of my favorite cookbooks because of it's sheer utility. Using the 'cookbook grading methodology' I wrote about previously, here's how this book stacks up:
Inspiration: This is one of my go-to cookbooks when I have an ingredient, especially a vegetable that I don't know what to do with. It has great photos, ideas for menus and a really great introduction that inspires you to cook. Most recipes also feature suggested substitutions, alternate ingredients, food pairing and serving suggestions, mostly in the sidebar of the main recipe so as not to interfere if you want to stick to the original.
Instruction: Most of the recipes in this book are not difficult, especially for a cook with some experience. But, for more difficult items like making fresh pasta or explaining different varieties or types of vegetables (e.g Flageolets, Jacobs Cattle and Marrow are all different types of beans) she provides clear instructions on handling, amounts, cooking times and storage.
Resource: Even for basic recipes like risotto, pie crust and pesto, I often turn to this book to get direction. The index is comprehensive, and since it's organized by type of food (salads, sandwiches) and courses, it's easy to find what you are looking for.
On that note, I'll leave you with a random recipe that I haven't tried yet, but plan to in the near future:
Braised Red Radishes
- 20 plump radishes (red or multicolored)
- 1-2 tablespoons of butter
- 1 shallot, diced
- 1 teaspon chopped thyme or several pinches dried
- Salt and freshly milled pepper
Trim the leaves from the radishes, leaving a bit of the green stems, and scrub them. If the leaves are tender and in good condition, wash them and set aside. Leave smaller radishes whole and halve or quarter large ones.
Melt 2-3 talbesppons of butter in a small saute pan. Add the shallot and thyme and cook for 1 minute over medium heat. Add the radishes, a little salt and pepper, and water just to cover. Simer until the radishes are tender, 3-5 minutes. Add the leaves if using and cook until they are wilted and tender. 1 minute more. Remove the radishes to a serving dish. Boil the liquid, adding a teaspooon or two more butter if you like, until only about 1/4 cup remains. Pour it over the radishes and serve.
(she's big on braising vegetables, which truthfully is
a really great thing if you haven't tried it. The braised fennel
recipe in this book is one of my favorites)
From "Vegetarian Cooking for Everyone" by Deborah Madison
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